﻿<?xml version='1.0' encoding='UTF-8'?><rss version="2.0" xmlns:dc="http://purl.org/dc/elements/1.1/"><channel><title>Boston BMW Chapter Forum / Boston BMW CCA Forums / Ask a Professional BMW Mechanic </title><generator>InstantForum.NET v4.1.4</generator><description>Boston BMW Chapter Forum</description><link>http://boston-bmwcca.org/InstantForum/</link><webMaster>BostonForum@boston-bmwcca.org</webMaster><lastBuildDate>Wed, 20 Aug 2008 08:05:17 GMT</lastBuildDate><ttl>20</ttl><item><title>Dashboard "beeping"</title><link>http://boston-bmwcca.org/InstantForum/Topic809-7-1.aspx</link><description>I am hearing a series of 3 beeps coming from under the left side of the dash at random times while driving.  I have a 97 E36 M3. Any ideas?</description><pubDate>Mon, 18 Aug 2008 10:02:38 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>eyelise</dc:creator></item><item><title>Stuck caliper?</title><link>http://boston-bmwcca.org/InstantForum/Topic810-7-1.aspx</link><description>I replaced the front rotors myself a week ago. Since then I noticed a metallic clicking from the driver's side intermitently that goes away under braking. I pulled the wheel and noticed the pad adjacent to the piston (inside) is somewhat loose. I'm sure that is where the sound is coming from. The passenger side are snug. Is the caliper piston stuck? The braking feels fine, no problems no pulling. I went a head and bled the caliper, no difference. The caliper is supposed to float on sliders. Could that be the problem? Is the piston somehow not advancing as the pad wears? Any ideas?</description><pubDate>Mon, 18 Aug 2008 10:08:11 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>eyelise</dc:creator></item><item><title>E36 M3 replacement tires</title><link>http://boston-bmwcca.org/InstantForum/Topic597-7-1.aspx</link><description>&lt;SPAN id=ctl02_ctlTopic_ctlPanelBar_ctlTopicsRepeater_ctl04_lblFullMessage&gt;I recently purchased an E36 M3 for track and daily driving. I'm purchasing a track set of wheels and tires. I'd like to hear peoples thoughts on the Kumho 710s, Victoracers, Hoosier R6, and Nitto Nt01s. I know BMW people tend to favor the RA-1s but I am wondering about the collective experience with other brands. My street tire is the Falken RT-615 which I highly recommend for OEM replacement. Interested in your thoughts. &lt;P&gt;BTW, I've been looking at sizing and plan to move to the same size tire all the way around. I'm having the front fenders rolled to accomodate 255/40/17s on 8.5" wheels. It appears the OEM 245/40/17 is as rare as hen's teeth in racing rubber. The Hoosier R6 does come in this size but I've been warned it wears very fast. The alternative is moving to 235/40/70 or 255/40/7.&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;I intend to use the set for HPDE and time trials. I usually run in the red run grps. I've been tracking various cars for about 8yrs and even attended Skips racing school. This will be my first real set of race rubber!!!!&lt;/SPAN&gt;</description><pubDate>Fri, 20 Jun 2008 12:48:37 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>eyelise</dc:creator></item><item><title>How about those great run flat tires?</title><link>http://boston-bmwcca.org/InstantForum/Topic704-7-1.aspx</link><description>So it appears BMW run flats are falling flat. Road noise, vibrations etc.. Replacement needed within 10-20,000 miles... BMW is not saying much about this to date and certainly they have not notified owners of the problem they have. I cannot imagine that the ultimate driving machine is enhanced with all weather run flat tires.... Perhaps they shoudl rethink and return to real performance tires that last a bit longer, are cheaper and quieter....</description><pubDate>Thu, 24 Jul 2008 23:22:18 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>twinlmlp</dc:creator></item><item><title>2008 328xi E92 Fuel Pump issue</title><link>http://boston-bmwcca.org/InstantForum/Topic684-7-1.aspx</link><description>Does this problem sound familiar at all, had these symptoms recently:&lt;UL&gt;&lt;LI&gt;Drove for several hours on a hot day (90+)&lt;/LI&gt;&lt;LI&gt;Stopped for gas, waited in line idling for 10 to 15 minutes&lt;/LI&gt;&lt;LI&gt;Shut the car off at the pump, filled tank&lt;/LI&gt;&lt;LI&gt;Went to restart car, cranked over but wouldn't start&lt;/LI&gt;&lt;LI&gt;Dash display showed "fuel pump" in the diagnostics area&lt;/LI&gt;&lt;LI&gt;Attendant tried to be helpful and offered a jump even though the car was turning over fine&lt;/LI&gt;&lt;LI&gt;Maybe 5 minutes went by before he hooked a battery to the car, and at that time it started fine&lt;/LI&gt;&lt;/UL&gt;&lt;P&gt;No problem before or after this isolated incident, so doing some online research to look for possible problems or solutions.&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;~gs2gf</description><pubDate>Mon, 21 Jul 2008 13:48:22 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>GoSlow2GoFast</dc:creator></item><item><title>broken or disengaged top 98 323i</title><link>http://boston-bmwcca.org/InstantForum/Topic632-7-1.aspx</link><description>i have a 323i conv. the top is up a light is flashing near the switch when i push the switch i hear a moter running but nothing happens. i was thinking that i need to get the top down and engage the top but i don't know how. can you tell me how to get a power top down. and also how to engage it. why is the light on?</description><pubDate>Mon, 30 Jun 2008 23:04:59 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>asykora2574</dc:creator></item><item><title>98 323i bmw conv</title><link>http://boston-bmwcca.org/InstantForum/Topic634-7-1.aspx</link><description>i get a tail light code but all the lights work?  any ideas?</description><pubDate>Mon, 30 Jun 2008 23:10:42 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>asykora2574</dc:creator></item><item><title>Add coolant message.</title><link>http://boston-bmwcca.org/InstantForum/Topic649-7-1.aspx</link><description>For about a week I have been receiving  Check Coolant messages. After noting excessive coolant on the garage floor I replaced the coolant. After turning on the ignition loud intermittent squeeky sounds have appeared. Mininmal  coolant is dripping on the floor. The Check Coolant message is not coming on but I have only driven around the block. Is the noise relkated to the coolant problem?&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;mrosen</description><pubDate>Sun, 06 Jul 2008 20:38:05 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>mrosen</dc:creator></item><item><title>2001 330I Transmission Replacement</title><link>http://boston-bmwcca.org/InstantForum/Topic650-7-1.aspx</link><description>Hi,&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;Earlier I posted an issue about loss of reverse which seems to be a fiarly common issue on certian 3 Series Automaric Transmissions.&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;BMW has since agreed to pay for the New (Rebuilt) Transmission, but I am to pay for the Labor, The dealership in NH. has qouted me a cost on labor of $1,195.00, This seems fairly excessive in cost, specially since BMW has owned up to resolve there design flaw issue.&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;I am willing to pay for labor, specially since I have been w/o reverse for the 3 months it took to convince BMW of NA to own up to the issue, at least in my case.&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;But $1,195.00 I do not have, what is the chance of reducing the amount by at least $4-500.00?&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;Thank you,&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;Jim</description><pubDate>Mon, 07 Jul 2008 11:50:38 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>Bandit2006</dc:creator></item><item><title>98 323i trunk wont open</title><link>http://boston-bmwcca.org/InstantForum/Topic633-7-1.aspx</link><description>i locked my trunk on my bmw 323i and now i can't get it to open i turn the key all the way to the left and it click click click click but doesn't open. any ideas on how to get it open.</description><pubDate>Mon, 30 Jun 2008 23:09:02 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>asykora2574</dc:creator></item><item><title>E36 M3 oil question</title><link>http://boston-bmwcca.org/InstantForum/Topic583-7-1.aspx</link><description>Hi Mike,&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;This is probably the 1,000th time you have fielded a question like this, but I was wondering what oil you recommend for an E36 M3 in the summer, daily driver as well as track car. I am guessing that the 5W30 is too light. A mechanic during a recent undercarriage inspection suggested BMW's 5W60. Of course, I use a synthetic. I was thinking Red Line 10W40 might be good but was wondering what you would recommend.&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;Thanks!&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;Steve</description><pubDate>Wed, 18 Jun 2008 13:49:40 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>stowers</dc:creator></item><item><title>Making Modifications to my M3</title><link>http://boston-bmwcca.org/InstantForum/Topic580-7-1.aspx</link><description>I purchased my 2004 M3 Convertible about 3 months ago and want to start doing modifications to it. However, I don't know where to start and what things I should add first. I know I have to go with a company like Dinan to keep the warranty intact but what's the next step. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.</description><pubDate>Wed, 18 Jun 2008 11:19:01 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>BostonBimmer</dc:creator></item><item><title>2001 330I No Reverse</title><link>http://boston-bmwcca.org/InstantForum/Topic544-7-1.aspx</link><description>Dear Sir,&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;My 2001 330I with 66,000 miles lost the ability to shift to reverse, reverse gear is eqiuvelent to plave the transmission in nuetral.&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;I have read that this problem is widespread and cuased by a design flaw in the c-ring groove which retians the reverse clutch plate assy together.&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;Could you please verify this consensus and if there is a chance that BMW will provide assistance in repairing this design flaw?&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;Any information you may be able to provide would be greatly appreciated.&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;Thank you!&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;JMO</description><pubDate>Fri, 06 Jun 2008 14:44:46 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>Bandit2006</dc:creator></item><item><title>help with 2004 530i</title><link>http://boston-bmwcca.org/InstantForum/Topic567-7-1.aspx</link><description>my 2004 530i makes a whistling noise when in i accelerate from a stop position is this normal once i reach 30 mph or accelerate quickly it goes away but once i hit below 30 once i step on the gas it whistles like a burst of air was coming out</description><pubDate>Sat, 14 Jun 2008 18:44:02 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>edfei316</dc:creator></item><item><title>Auto Trans Leak with Code P0741</title><link>http://boston-bmwcca.org/InstantForum/Topic565-7-1.aspx</link><description>I've a 2001 330CIC, 70000 miles, with the ZF5HP19 auto trans.  Though the car drives fine, it posts a P0741 OBD code, which I found means the torque converter clutch is not locking up, and I am getting a small transmission fluid leak. I haven't crawled under the car yet to tell exactly where on the trans it is leaking from, but from all I have found in researching this, I believe it has failure symptoms of the seal between the Torque Converter and main case. &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;I will probably be bringing it to the dealer for repair next week, but first some questions:&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;Is this a common failure?&lt;br&gt;Is the BMW dealer best equipped to handle this?&lt;br&gt;Is this just a seal replacement (and probably an expensive one at that) or should other part replacement and other service be performed on the trans while it is removed? &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;Any advice appreciated.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;Thanks,&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;Dom</description><pubDate>Fri, 13 Jun 2008 20:32:30 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>dxsuppap</dc:creator></item><item><title>Mass State Inspection Emissions on e34 530i</title><link>http://boston-bmwcca.org/InstantForum/Topic551-7-1.aspx</link><description>Hello Mike,&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;I just posted this in the car section, I've always heard great things about you and your shop, so I figured I'd give it a try here as well.&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P style="BACKGROUND: white"&gt;&lt;SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; COLOR: #1f5080; FONT-FAMILY: Verdana"&gt;My current '94 530i (160K) keeps failing on emissions even though I've replaced many parts and I have kept up with maintenance.&lt;?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" /&gt;&lt;o:p&gt;&lt;/o:p&gt;&lt;/SPAN&gt;&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P style="BACKGROUND: white"&gt;&lt;SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; COLOR: #1f5080; FONT-FAMILY: Verdana"&gt;I am fully aware of the Nikasil problem and my engine doesn't seem to have this issue, I've had it compression and leak tested.&lt;o:p&gt;&lt;/o:p&gt;&lt;/SPAN&gt;&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P style="BACKGROUND: white"&gt;&lt;SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; COLOR: #1f5080; FONT-FAMILY: Verdana"&gt;Cats have been replaced, complete intake reseal, all tune up items done always, not sure on smog pump status, and I've reset the adaptation values, all to only improve but not pass emissions testing. Idles well (for a V8 of its generation), and doesn't smell out the pipe, or blow smoke, and MPG is/are ok, no engine hesitation IMO, no OBD II-only dyno.&lt;/SPAN&gt;&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P style="BACKGROUND: white"&gt;&lt;SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; COLOR: #1f5080; FONT-FAMILY: Verdana"&gt;One thing is that when my car is tested for some reason the engine status comes up as a 6 cylinder on the state inspection page. And also the emission results are very similar to what it was producing in year 2000 (i have paperwork, back then it came up as an 8cyl.) and by the standards of 2000 it still passes, but in 2008 some of the limits have been cut to 1/3 of 2000.&lt;o:p&gt;&lt;/o:p&gt;&lt;/SPAN&gt;&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P style="BACKGROUND: white"&gt;&lt;SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; COLOR: #1f5080; FONT-FAMILY: Verdana"&gt;Personally I think the limits have become too stringent and the car is just fine. Any help at all would be greatly appreciated. Thanks Mike,&lt;/SPAN&gt;&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P style="BACKGROUND: white"&gt;&lt;SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; COLOR: #1f5080; FONT-FAMILY: Verdana"&gt;Patrick&lt;/SPAN&gt;</description><pubDate>Mon, 09 Jun 2008 13:29:23 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>BlueE34</dc:creator></item><item><title>E36 M3 suspension</title><link>http://boston-bmwcca.org/InstantForum/Topic540-7-1.aspx</link><description>I need advice. I'm in the process of replacing my suspension. I was planning on a TC Kline kit but was just told it would be 6 months or more for availability. I do HPDEs and autocross and daily drive the car. I'd like some adjustability and a significant improvement over the OEM suspension. I plan to do camber plates no matter what. &lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;Does anyone have experience with the Bilstein PSS9? What about off the shelf Koni's with HR springs? I'm lost.&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;Jeff</description><pubDate>Fri, 06 Jun 2008 10:25:32 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>eyelise</dc:creator></item><item><title>02 sensors on E36 M3</title><link>http://boston-bmwcca.org/InstantForum/Topic541-7-1.aspx</link><description>I was told I'm getting a soft "engine code" that one of my 02 sensors may be going. How do i go about identifying which one it is and should it be replaced now/ The check engine light is not on currently on.</description><pubDate>Fri, 06 Jun 2008 10:29:57 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>eyelise</dc:creator></item><item><title>E46 cooling system overhaul</title><link>http://boston-bmwcca.org/InstantForum/Topic537-7-1.aspx</link><description>After seeing a fellow autocrosser's '99 328 blow it's cooling system, I think it's time for a cooling system overhaul in my car. ('00 328Ci, 150k miles)&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;I plan to replace the radiator, expansion tank, water pump, thermostat and housing as well as the major hoses.  How much farther into the system should I go?  What is the failure rate of the plastic water pipes under the intake manifold?  Seems like a lot of labor if they virtually never fail.  Same goes for the hoses to the heater core, although they are easier to get at.&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;Any feedback would be much appreciated.&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;Mark Chambers</description><pubDate>Tue, 03 Jun 2008 11:49:20 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>markachambers</dc:creator></item><item><title>overheating 97 E36 M3</title><link>http://boston-bmwcca.org/InstantForum/Topic486-7-1.aspx</link><description>I was at an autocroos Sunday with my new used M3. The engine ran very hot. The temp guage passed the third white line indicator although not into the red and it did not boilover. I checked the coolant lvl and it was fine. Are there any areas that commonly cause overheating in the E36 M3? The engine has 70K and has seen light duty. I was thinking of changing the thermostat incase it was sticking. Obviously the fluid change as well at that time. I hope the radiator is not shot. BTW, I had to put the heater on full blast while cruising on the highway. It definitely kept it from overheating.</description><pubDate>Mon, 05 May 2008 12:53:21 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>eyelise</dc:creator></item><item><title>E36 Instrument Cluster Failure</title><link>http://boston-bmwcca.org/InstantForum/Topic515-7-1.aspx</link><description>To anyone who can help, &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;I have a '93 318is and last fall before I put it away for the winter had an instrument cluster failure where all gauges on the dash with a needle stopped working. All idiot lights are still operational but that makes sense when looking at the electrical diagram, they are totally independently wired. I have checked every fuse that I can find because their sudden failure would lead me to believe that it is a fuse however I have pulled and checked them all.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;Even though my car has 208k+ miles on it, I have no problem buying a used instrument cluster on ebay and swapping it out but before I did I wanted to make sure that it was not another problem which could mask itself as an instrument failure.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;Failure of instrument cluster occurred while changing lanes at highway speeds in the rain on rt. 90. I was hoping that when taking it out of storage this spring it would have healed over the winter but that was not the case. &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;Does anyone have any E36 instrument failure stories or knowledge that they can share?&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;Thanks</description><pubDate>Sun, 18 May 2008 21:33:32 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>faceoff8</dc:creator></item><item><title>Lower control arm bushings</title><link>http://boston-bmwcca.org/InstantForum/Topic518-7-1.aspx</link><description>I recently installed new LCA bushings in my e46 330.  I wanted to upgrade from stock, but have been wary of poly bushings due to their reputation for squeaking and requiring periodic lubrication.  So I went with UUC's "ultimate" bushing, which they say is not exactly poly, but it's not metal, delrin or rubber, either.  It's very hard, for sure, and has a bearing-like design that allows the inner bushing to rotate in the carrier.  The performance is excellent.  I installed them using only soap to lube the control arm.&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;But, a month later, they have started to make a creaking, groaning sound that is a bit too "racer" for me.  I want my BMW to be quiet and smooth.  Any suggestions (besides turn up the radio)?  I've heard that petroleum based lubricants are incompatible with some plastics.  Lithium grease?  Do I need to remove the bushing, or is there a trick to lubing them in place?&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;Thanks Mike.</description><pubDate>Tue, 20 May 2008 10:26:27 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>maxell0405</dc:creator></item><item><title>Aftermarket Sunroof Installation</title><link>http://boston-bmwcca.org/InstantForum/Topic463-7-1.aspx</link><description>Hi Mike,&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;I have a 2004 325xi (certified pre-owned) that I absolutely love.  The one thing I wish it had was a sunroof.  Do you, or could you recommend someone who does, install sunroofs?  Is there a particular brand that you would recommend?  Thanks much for your reply.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;Regards,&lt;br&gt;Jonathon</description><pubDate>Wed, 23 Apr 2008 11:20:03 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>JSwersey</dc:creator></item><item><title>Oil Pressure / Oil Temp</title><link>http://boston-bmwcca.org/InstantForum/Topic506-7-1.aspx</link><description>I have on a few occassion been considering at least an Oil Pressure gauge and Possibly and oil temp (my car does not have them)&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;Q's&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;1.) I am from the old school of 270degree sweep and mechanical oil pressure.&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;Thought I see many running the electrics, comments on either??&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;2.) Oil temp..again I would lean towards a mechanical but then how on a BMW?&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;again guy's seem to be running electrics but the sensor I hear is at the same place as the pressure, do you really get a good oil temp rading there? on such a small stagnant sample?&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;comments and thoughts, expereince?&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;thx&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;bill</description><pubDate>Wed, 14 May 2008 19:07:06 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>bmellott</dc:creator></item><item><title>E36 M3 engine noise</title><link>http://boston-bmwcca.org/InstantForum/Topic487-7-1.aspx</link><description>My engine sounded like a sewing machine at the autocross this Sunday. People kept asking me to check the oil. I guess it was valve noise. I think it may have been related to the very high engine temps. It seemed to go away almost completely when the engine cooled down. What exactly is the noise?</description><pubDate>Mon, 05 May 2008 12:56:25 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>eyelise</dc:creator></item><item><title>trunk closed and can't open with release button</title><link>http://boston-bmwcca.org/InstantForum/Topic484-7-1.aspx</link><description>rod conncting release button to latch is disconnected and trunk is closed.  Is there any way to get the trunk open?</description><pubDate>Sun, 04 May 2008 07:41:36 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>tmks baby</dc:creator></item><item><title>E30 M20 motor has Major Hesitation at 5,500 RPM's</title><link>http://boston-bmwcca.org/InstantForum/Topic479-7-1.aspx</link><description>I have been trying to figure this out for about a year now.  I have an '89 325is with about 180k on the motor.  On occasion the car will cough somewhere around 5,000 rpm's almost as if it had hit the rev limiter.  It seems to happen only under hard acceleration and not every time either (at least 90 percent though). &lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;The fact that this happens at the same point on the tach and nowhere else makes me wonder if it's a problem with the ECU.  I have swapped out the plugs and the wires are in very good shape.  The K&amp;amp;N filter is freshly cleaned.&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.</description><pubDate>Wed, 30 Apr 2008 17:03:08 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>Healy325</dc:creator></item><item><title>Rim repair in Rhode Island</title><link>http://boston-bmwcca.org/InstantForum/Topic451-7-1.aspx</link><description>I hit a pothole and now have a flat spot in one of my rims. Does anyone know of a rim repair shop in Rhode Island?</description><pubDate>Mon, 14 Apr 2008 15:18:13 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>bdick</dc:creator></item><item><title>95' 325i Convertible - roof re-engagement</title><link>http://boston-bmwcca.org/InstantForum/Topic425-7-1.aspx</link><description>Hi,&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;I've been in this position once before where I somehow screwed up the electrical operation of the convertible roof.  Now, the motors are not engaged / not operating.  (Note - I did not pull that release arm under the driver's rear seat).&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;Can you tell me the process to resetting or re-engaging the electrical motors?  I won't loose the directions this time.&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;Thanks,&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;Jay Pilkington</description><pubDate>Tue, 08 Apr 2008 14:51:01 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>jpilk99</dc:creator></item><item><title>Maintenance Schedule - 2003 325Ci with 95k</title><link>http://boston-bmwcca.org/InstantForum/Topic442-7-1.aspx</link><description>What's the maintenance schedule look like for a 2003 BMW 325Ci? I just hit 95k and want to be sure I'm performing the upkeep I need to be, but I can't find the information anywhere.</description><pubDate>Sat, 12 Apr 2008 11:14:27 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>mbritojr</dc:creator></item><item><title>Engine Ticking Noise in 2007 328 and 528 engines</title><link>http://boston-bmwcca.org/InstantForum/Topic393-7-1.aspx</link><description>I have a fairly loud engine ticking noise most of the time in my 2007 328cic.  I have listened to a friend's 2007 528 and heard it as well.  Dealership says it is normal, due to the vanos.  Is it?&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;Thanks.&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;Andy</description><pubDate>Mon, 31 Mar 2008 01:18:24 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>zoning</dc:creator></item><item><title>530i Passenger Air Bag Warning Alarm</title><link>http://boston-bmwcca.org/InstantForum/Topic404-7-1.aspx</link><description>My 2004 530i has had the Passenger Air Bag Warning Alarm go off for the third time. We had stopped breifly, and my wife got out to buy something in the store and when she sat back down the alarm went off.  Each time I had not shut off the car and had left the engine running. &lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;The first time I was visiting the Dealer here on the Cape for the first time.  They said the seat needed to be replaced for $1200!  I had them reset the alarm and it was fine for three months.  Then the same thing happened and I took the car to the delivering dealer in Natick.  They said it was a sensor in the stearing column and it would cost $1500!  Again, I had them reset the alarm.  It has gone off for the third time three months later.  What's going on?</description><pubDate>Tue, 01 Apr 2008 15:03:46 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>Shock</dc:creator></item><item><title>M52 oil consumption?</title><link>http://boston-bmwcca.org/InstantForum/Topic373-7-1.aspx</link><description>What is acceptable, normal oil consumption for a 3.0L six in my E39? It's just over 120K on the clock, and seems to use a quart of oil in about 3500 miles. Is this normal, high, or in the danger zone? Perhaps I'm just looking for an excuse to get a new ride, but I do love this car. ;)</description><pubDate>Sat, 22 Mar 2008 20:33:19 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>KenM10759</dc:creator></item><item><title>M6 2007 Oil change and rim protection</title><link>http://boston-bmwcca.org/InstantForum/Topic389-7-1.aspx</link><description>Mike,&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;I recently purchased a used 2007 m6 there is no info in manual or in computer about what type of oil to use or when the changes should take place after first 1200  Miles. I have 3750 miles currently when do you suggest miles changes. In addition, no sure how to treat my rim there seems to be so dulling of my rims after cleaning them with a brush.</description><pubDate>Sun, 30 Mar 2008 10:07:30 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>montekid00</dc:creator></item><item><title>E36-fuel pump issues-help!</title><link>http://boston-bmwcca.org/InstantForum/Topic400-7-1.aspx</link><description>Please help me my car has burn't out 4 fuel pumps in 2months and no one seems to know whats going on...</description><pubDate>Mon, 31 Mar 2008 16:11:10 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>mrlaw2</dc:creator></item><item><title>Vibration at 50mph</title><link>http://boston-bmwcca.org/InstantForum/Topic395-7-1.aspx</link><description>Have replaced the front end almost completely but havent touched the steering.  When driving I get an intermittent strong vibration in the steering wheel at 50 -55 mph.  You can drive through it and doesn't happen all the time.  The car has 17" tires on aftermarket wheels.  Have tried the balancing and front end alignment but it still is present.  I have been told that 1) the wheels are too much for the 1985 front end and 2) that the spline in the steering is worn (and was tightened) Any ideas?</description><pubDate>Mon, 31 Mar 2008 08:48:00 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>85_635csi</dc:creator></item><item><title>E92 335i 6MT</title><link>http://boston-bmwcca.org/InstantForum/Topic391-7-1.aspx</link><description>Hello,&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;I have an awful shift into second gear when the car is cold. Sometimes I feel grinding other times the shift is better. I do know how to shift as well as advanced shifting techniques. I was wondering what was wrong. Every other gear is perfect. I have heard of the CDV but do not know if it actually is that because usually when the engine warms up the shift into second feels smoother.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;PLEASE HELP IT REALLY DOES BUG ME...45K $ car and shift sucks...&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;Thank you,&lt;br&gt;David Arustamian</description><pubDate>Sun, 30 Mar 2008 15:04:11 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>Arustik</dc:creator></item><item><title>VANOS- cam position sensor failing</title><link>http://boston-bmwcca.org/InstantForum/Topic377-7-1.aspx</link><description>I have a 99 328ic with a check engine light.  I coded it out and read a faulting cam position sensor.  The engine seems to run fine and I'm waiting to get a new sensor later this week.  The issue I'm having is that in the last week or so the engine has been missing slightly under normal street driving acceleration.   If I accelerate more aggressivly it does'nt seem to happen.   Now I have usually used mid grade gas or better, but then last week regular was put in. I had initially thought the lower grade gas may have caused it but I'm wondering now if maybe the cam position sensor failing is having an affect on the variable intake cam timing.  Any thoughts on this problem would be appreciated.    &lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;                                                                             Thanx ,  Slide</description><pubDate>Mon, 24 Mar 2008 20:20:29 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>Slide</dc:creator></item><item><title>Finding suspension clunks?</title><link>http://boston-bmwcca.org/InstantForum/Topic350-7-1.aspx</link><description>I have a 2002 530i/A with Sport &amp; Premium packages, now at 120,000 miles. It had developed pulsation with braking (at any speed), and replacing all 4 rotors and pad sets fixed that. Now with the radio off, I hear an ever-so-slight kind of rumbly-clunky sound coming from the right front as I go over bumps. It's just a little loooseness, it seems, in part of the suspension.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;When the car was bought at 72,500 miles (still under CPO), the dealer had (said) they replaced the thrust bushings as part of the attempt at ridding the car of a vibration at 75mph. The true solution to that problem turned out to be out-of-round Pirelli P6 4 Season tires, which were exchanged for a set of Michelin Pilot Sport A/S. The car was smooth as glass after those tires were road-force balanced and installed, though putting the 4 snows on negated those measures for the winter. &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;Now with the snows still on the car, I do feel this looseness. When I did the brakes, I looked at all the bushings that I could see, and none were obviously spitting out their rubber innards. I should have given the tires a shake to check tie rods ends, but forgot. &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;What would be the best course of action to get the car back to nice? Clearly, I'll wait until I get the snows off and but the Michelins back on (I found a garage a mile from me with a Hunter GSP9700 RF balancer.) Once that's done, would the average mechanic be able to diagnose this without throwing every new part at it?</description><pubDate>Sat, 15 Mar 2008 08:17:18 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>KenM10759</dc:creator></item><item><title>Unfix-able Transmission: 740IL</title><link>http://boston-bmwcca.org/InstantForum/Topic353-7-1.aspx</link><description>The transmission on my 1998 740 IL was replaced by a local shop in Greenwich CT just before I bought it. Since the sale I have had to take it back to the shop twice for transmission problems after getting the warning message " Trans. Failsafe prog". The mechanic claims that the first two replacement transmissions were "bad" and he replaced them with another re-built transmission (non-BMW certified).&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;Now I am getting the message again. My question is: Is it possible that the transmissions are fine and that this shop does not know how to correctly install a BMW transmission? Could he be missing a step? IS there a BMW mechanic in the Boston area who you would recommend for this type of problem?&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;I know I could take the car to a dealership and have another transmission installed but I am trying to avoid spending a ton of money. Any help/guidance would be appreciated.&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;Brian</description><pubDate>Sun, 16 Mar 2008 11:41:30 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>BostonBrian</dc:creator></item></channel></rss>